I just finished reading Big Cotton by Stephen Yafa. Big Cotton provides a thorough account of the importance of cotton throughout history. The book explains cotton's role in slavery in the U.S., the UK, and South America; on industrialization in England and in the northeast, later followed by industrialization in the South; and, cotton's role in the Civil War. The book concluded by providing an analysis of how protectionist measures impact American growers as well as growers in developing countries.
Among the revelations in Big Cotton are:
1) Cotton is truly ubiquitous. Cotton and its byproducts are found in dynamite, book bindings, fingernail polish, hot dogs, paint, X-ray film while cottonseed meal feeds livestock and dairy cattle. Recycled remnants from blue-jean factories make up 75% of the content of United States paper currency.
2) Cotton became popular hundreds of years ago because it is easy to clean, soft against the skin, and the dyes used in cotton did not lose their color as it was common for other materials to lose their color when washed.
3) While the working conditions in cotton mills in cities such as Manchester and Lowell, Massachusetts were deplorable by today's standards, the conditions were actually initially quite agreeable to the workers and their families. a) The concept of regular income and the guarantee of regular meals was an alien concept to cottage-industry families. b) Parents of mill girls thought that 14-hours of strenuous work was good for their daughters in that it would exhaust the young women's libidinous drives. c) Workers often lived in boardinghouses which resembled seminary dormitories; were chaperoned by older housemothers; and the church was a welcome presence from loom to room.
4) The British believed that their cotton mill technology was so valuable, and they were so fearful of its misappropriation, that they refused to let anyone who worked in a cotton mill leave the country.
5) By 1850 more millionaires per capita lived in Natchez, Mississippi--a large cotton growing region--than anywhere else on earth.
6) The Civil War triggered a dramatic reduction in cotton production in the South. In 1861 cotton production was 4.5 million bales and plummeted to only 300,000 by 1864 as the Union blockade on Southern shipping thwarted large transports.
7) After the Civil War ended, sharecropping--whereby former slaves and indigent whites leased land on which to grow crops--became common. Growers were perpetually indebted to the merchants that financed their efforts and who maintained liens on their crops.
8) Levi Strauss was approached by a tailor who was inundated with orders for pants made from the cloth that Strauss was selling. The tailor could not afford the $68 necessary to file for a patent. Strauss saw a great opportunity and received 50% of the ensuing partnership for his financing of the patent. Later, Levi Strauss benefited from being close to Hollywood, where many actors wore its jeans on the silver screen. Levi Strauss also benefited from World War II since American soldiers took their jeans all over the world.
9) During the 1960s, polyester took significant market share from denim. For instance, between 1960 and 1971 cotton's share of the American apparel market slipped from 66% to 34%. This decline in denim sales was reversed when Ben Braddock (played by Dustin Hoffman) in The Graduate was told that the future was in plastics. The hippie generation thumbed its nose at authority (polyester) and returned to blue jeans.
10) The boll weevil wrecked $22 billion in crop damage and decimated millions of acres of farmland. Some counties' cotton production plunged 98% due to the boll weevil.
11) Many chemicals are used in cotton-based fabrics. One-third of a pound of chemicals is used to produce the cotton in every tee-shirt. Three-quarters of a pound of chemicals goes into every pair of jeans, and about one and a quarter pound into every set of queen-sized sheets. However, just about all of these chemicals are leached out by the time these products reach the retailers. As Patagonia's director of environmental analysis said, "As long as you don't stuff your shirt in your mouth, you won't have a problem."
12) Cotton is currently grown on about 90 million acres in seventy countries, or 3% of the earth's arable land.
13) Organic cotton accounts for less than one-third of one percent of worldwide production - most of it originating in Turkey, Peru, and Uganda. Only one-tenth of one percent of domestic cotton is grown organically. The Japanese account for about 90% of the organic cotton market.
14) The British seized control of India largely to gain control of its cotton. One of Muhatma Gandhi's most effective forms of passive resistance was to burn his western clothing and to spin his own cotton kadhis and to encourage his followers to do likewise.
15) The wealthiest American cotton farmers benefit disproportionately from subsidies. America's 25,000 cotton farmers have an average net worth of $800,000 per household and reap in $3.2 billion in subsidies, about five times as much as grain farmers. However, many of the 22,000 or so farmers who receive only 25% of all federal subsidies do not even own their own acreage.
Big Cotton is definitely worth reading for its enjoyable prose and rich history lessons.